A Tour of The Scottish Borders: Tracking Sir Walter Scott & the Border Ballads
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This summer I was able to take a trip to the gorgeous Scottish Borders in the South of Scotland, a place that until recently I did not know a lot about but quickly drew me in with its gorgeous landscape and rich history.
We were invited by The South of Scotland Destination Alliance to explore the history and literary locations in the area, so if you’re keen to travel in the footsteps of literature, this guide will give you an extensive list to start with, from gorgeous estates to valleys, lochs, graveyards, but also beautiful towns and restaurants.
Sir Walter Scott & The Romantic Poets
The Scottish Borders are the home of famous and bestselling Scottish author Sir Walter Scott (if you’ve visited Edinburgh before, you’ll of course have spotted the Scott Monument towering over the other buildings the moment you stepped out of Waverley Station, which is also named after one of his novels!)
Abbotsford House
Photos of Abbotsford, Sir Walter Scott’s home, do not do it justice. You really have to experience it in person! Scott himself described the house as ‘rambling, whimsical and picturesque’ and it feels incredibly unique. A fanatic historian, he used pieces from old buildings and anything else that he liked the look of, and incorporated it into the garden walls and even the walls of the home itself. He also hosted many famous authors and poets, from Wordsworth to Dickens, in his house. The entrance hall, every inch of which is covered with armour, skulls and other memorable items, the library and the gardens are the absolute highlights.
If you’re travelling by public transport, there is an Abbotsford bus that goes straight from Tweedbank station.
Scott’s View
This isn’t just a beautiful view of Eildon Hills, but it was also Sir Walter Scott’s favourite view and he would have passed it on his way home. We stopped by on a drive from town to town, but I’m sure there are some beautiful walks nearby too where you can fully take in the view.
Smailholm Tower
You can see Smailholm Tower from miles away, which makes sense as it’s a historic peel tower, and the height was needed to spot the famous Border Reivers (groups of raiders) from a distance! There is also a wonderful audio exhibit so you can listen to some of the Border Ballads, which are local stories about battles and even fairy abductions, in style. Sir Walter Scott also spent some of his childhood in the house next to the tower, and this was his introduction to the Scottish Borders, where he would later end up living.
Find out more about Historic Environment Scotland on their Instagram.
Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom
In the beautiful town of Selkirk you will find Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom in a building that dates from 1804. Scott was the Sheriff of Selkirkshire and worked there until his death in 1832. It currently houses a small exhibition which is a great intro to Scott’s life.
The Border Ballads in the Ettrick and Yarrow Valleys
The Yarrow and Ettrick Valleys are located about an hour by train South of Edinburgh, and a 40 minute drive north of the border between Scotland and England. The landscape (as you can see from the photos) is absolutely breathtaking, with beautiful hills and fields, and plenty of towns and routes to explore. There are also a ton of literary connections here, and I’ve listed some of the highlights below.
The area is also known for the Border Ballads, local stories about raids, adventures and supernatural events that were sung and not written down, but eventually documented by Sir Walter Scott.
St Mary’s Loch
St. Mary’s Loch is located between Selkirk and Moffat and is the perfect place for a beautiful walk. If you head a bit further down the road you can also visit Grey Mares Tail Nature Reserve and climb up to the waterfall, but we’ll have to save that one for next time!
Instead we climbed up to St Mary’s Churchyard, overlooking St. Mary’s Loch, with local guide and historian Mark Nicol. Not only do you get an amazing view, but the churchyard is also connected to the balled of ‘The Douglas Tragedy’ about two lovers who may have been buried here (after an elopement where her lover kills her father and seven brothers and then dies himself).
We also visited the more remote Cockburn’s Grave, which is related to the ballad of the Border Widow’s Lament, and ended up to our neck in ferns.
If you are heading to this area, definitely read up on some of the related ballads, as they’ll add so much to your visit. There’s also a video by guide Mark that shares a bit more of the history.
The Romantic Poets’ Hangout
The Tibbie Shiel’s Inn, named after the woman who used to run it, was a hotspot for literary figures of the time. William Wordsworth, Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and James Hogg all visited the inn, and you can see how the views would have inspired them. The inn has recently been done up, featuring portraits of the famous guests, and you can even camp on the grounds. Across the road you’ll also find a statue of James Hogg, overlooking the loch.
Visit James Hogg’s Grave
Author James Hogg, who was a poet and author who wrote Gothic novel The Private Memoirs and Confession of a Justified Sinner, is buried in the Ettrick Valley where he grew up and was a shepherd. If you’re a fan of the Gothic and are driving around the area, the atmospheric Ettrick churchyard is definitely worth visiting (especially if it’s raining, as it did when we were there). Look out for the harp detail at the top of Hogg’s gravestone!
Close to the graveyard you’ll also find a James Hogg Exhibition, which is housed in the former village school next door to Ettrickhall, where he was born in 1770.
lunch where Hogg and Scott met for the very last time
The Gordon Arms is an old historic coaching inn nestled in the Yarrow Valley. Authors and friends James Hogg and Sir Walter Scott met in the valley for the very first time, and became lifelong friends. James Hogg’s mother was also the source for a lot of the Border Ballads that Sir Water Scott later wrote down. The Gordon Arms is the place that Hogg and Scott met and parted ways for the very last time and there are some mementos related to the authors in the newly renovated inn.
They also use wonderful fresh and local ingredients in the kitchen, and it’s a must-visit after a walk by St Mary’s Loch.
Drive through the Valleys
These are some of the stunning views we saw driving through the Ettrick and Yarrow Valleys, without anyone else in sight. The first photo was taken on the route Gordon Arms > Crosslee > Hawick, but any of the smaller roads between Moffat, Selkirk, Hawick and Croslee will do the trick!
Towns & Other Places to visit
Besides the major literary locations, there are of course many more places you can add to your itinerary, and these were some of my favourite highlights.
Mainstreet Trading Company Bookshop, St Boswells
This incredible indie bookshop (AND deli AND home shop AND cafe) has won a ton of awards, including Independent Bookshop of the Year, Children’s Bookseller of the Year, and Scottish Independent Bookshop of the year. It’s a stunning space in St Boswells, and we had the pleasure of being shown around by one of the founders Roz (who it turns out I’d previously met during an event in one of my previous publishing jobs). The sandwiches in the cafe were delicious and I wish I lived a bit closer so I could pop by at least once a week.
They also host a range of incredible events, so if you’re head in their direction it’s worth checking the events schedule beforehand so you don’t miss out on tickets.
Kelso, Floors Castle and Schloss Roxburghe
Kelso is home to Floors Castle, which we didn’t have time to visit on this trip, but apparently I visited when I was younger (though I definitely need a memory refresher). You can reach the castle by foot from the town and also take a walk by the river Tweed after exploring the historic town centre.
Just outside of Kelso you’ll also find the impressive Schloss Roxburghe, where we were invited for a 3-course dinner. It’s very fancy but super friendly and welcoming, and all the rooms look stunning, especially the illustrated wallpaper (you can also stay at Schloss Roxburghe). Our dinner was a lovely fresh, and mostly vegetable-based, vegetarian meal that was pre-selected for us and I think the butternut squash and tahini starter was my favourite. Accompanied by a local gin, of course.
Selkirk & The Haining
We got the full ‘meet the local’s tour in Selkirk and popped into a ton of the wonderful shops, from a local Selkirk Distillers gin tasting to an art shop and of course we had to drop by the bookshop, The Forest Bookstore. Selkirk is also the home of Sir Walter Scott’s Courthouse museum (scroll up if you’re looking for more details).
We also visited The Haining, a country house that was left to the people of Selkirkshire. Locals often go for a walk by the Haining Loch and I took the opportunity to do my best Darcy impression in the rain.
Galashiels & the Great Tapestry of Scotland
The Great Tapestry of Scotland, based in Galashiels, is one you can’t miss! It depicts 420 million years of Scottish history and was created by 1000 stitchers from all across Scotland, with so many stunning stories to discover. You can spend a good few hours here, to see all the incredible details so make sure you leave enough time for your visit. It was an incredible collaborative effort, and the stitchers were given so much freedom to add personal and local touches, which the guides will be more than happy to help you discover.
Melrose Abbey & The Trimontium Museum
Melrose is a lovely and picturesque town, and you’ll immediately spot the Abbey ruins when you drive through it. And if there are Abbey ruins nearby, I have to go visit. Make sure you also pop into the gardens next door for some beautiful wildflowers.
You can also visit the Trimontium Museum, all about the Trimontium Roman fort which was placed just east of Melrose. It was the largest Roman fort north of Hadrian’s Wall, and once you’ve visited here you’ll be jumping to visit any Roman fort remains you can (and there’s plenty to choose from!).
For lunch, you can stop by Burts Hotel for a meal with local fresh ingredients, almost next door to the Trimontium Museum (and they’ve also got rooms if you’re looking to stay in Melrose).
How to get there and where to stay
Travelling By public transport
On this trip we had an incredible guide who drove us to the more remote locations, but there are quite a few that you are able to visit by public transport too.
Galashiels is a wonderful place to start your journey, and you can reach it from Edinburgh by train in about an hour going South.
From there you can use busses to get around and use the occasional (preferably pre-booked) taxi to get to more remote locations. Galashiels via Tweedbank to Melrose is 25 minutes by bus, Galashiels to Selkirk is also 20 minutes. And buses go from once an hour to every half hour until the early evening (but make sure to check for special days and Sundays).
However, if you’re going for some of the more remote places (such as St Mary’s Loch) you might need to use a car, or find your way to local accommodation via taxi and stay in that area for the day.
Where to stay
WhiteHouse Countryhouse B&B, melrose
We received the warmest welcome at Whitehouse Countryhouse, including a vegan cooked breakfast and some lovely dogs to befriend. The view onto the fields is unbeatable and I could even spot Smailholm Tower from the driveway when I went for a short walk. The room has so much character and I wish we could have stayed for a few extra days here.
Branxholme Castle, Hawick
If a castle with a generous sprinkle of luxury is your vibe, then you should stay at Branxholme Castle near Hawick (pronounced Hoik). We loved the spacious room (I think we were in the honeymoon suite!), cooked vegan breakfast and the literary-themed decorations, including a poem about a ghost that may or may not haunt the hallways of Branxholme Castle… P.s. There is also a holiday cottage, a coffee shop AND you can also get married here.
The evening we stayed here we also went for dinner in nearby Hawick at The Night Safe, who had some lovely vegetarian and vegan options and truffle fries + a chocolate dessert I’m still dreaming about!
Abbotsford
Yes, you’re reading this right, you can actually stay at Abbotsford! The Hope Scott Wing can be rented out by groups up to 16 people and after getting a sneaky tour while we visited, I can say it’s definitely worth checking it. The atmosphere and decor is breathtaking. And I believe you also have access to the grounds after hours. Writers retreat, anyone?
The Haining, Selkirk
You can stay at some of the cottages on the grounds of the beautiful country house (with its very own loch), The Haining. Your best bet is to have a look on AirBnB, as there are several options available. Just imagine a misty walk by the loch in the morning.
If you’re planning your own trip to the Scottish Borders in the South of Scotland, I hope this guide has given you all the info you’ll need to get started. We had an incredible time and I’ve immediately started bookmarking places I’d love to visit if I ever get to visit again. If you’ve got any questions for other tips, leave them in a comment below.
Thanks for Scotland Starts Here for taking us on such an unforgettable literary tour! You can also head to their website for more tips about the area or check out their Instagram.
